Where to next?

So, from late October, it looks like I’ll be touring New Zealand on a pedal cycle, and once again, sleeping in my trusty little tent. Bugger; my poor old bones, but  the more I think about it, the more I’m getting used to the idea, and anyway, its either that or Shanks’ pony, so I’ll just do it.  Long story short, my funds are no more, donated to somebody who was in dire need. But no matter, as on the bright side, I will be able to eat whatever I like and still stay slim: yipee. ( if I can afford to eat that is, lol) Actually, I realised long ago that I don’t really need ( or want) very much to live, and the less I have to carry, the less I have to worry about.

I bought a pushie in Townsville a few weeks ago. It’s a basic trek hybrid thing which will do the job and wasn’t too expensive. It’s fairly light, has front suspension so my previously broken wrists will have a bit more comfort,. It also has quick release wheels, is easy to maintain, tools and repair kit are light, and its pretty but not too posh. I’ve got a helmet ( you have to wear one on the road anywhere in Aus; if you don’t, you get booked) and lights, a lock, and I’ll get a rack and two panniers, and that will be me sorted. Gerty will stay in Aus, but I will be back for her a few months after I leave.

I’ve even got a bit of a plan forming too, which is more prep than usual. If I keep my kit light, which should be easy given that I now own very little, I should be able to include the pushie in my check in luggage, providing that the whole lot comes to under 30kgs, and that I box the bike up, and thoroughly clean her before I do so. NZ won’t allow any Australian germs, soil or plant debris imported on tyres or frame. I’ve found a bike shop which will give me a box, and Air NZ  and Virgin Australia look quite accommodating on the bike in luggage front. 

So I’ll go from Brisbane to Auckland, then head north up to Whangarei. It will be spring in NZ and the north is the warmest bit of course, given that its all back to front and south of the equator. But I’ve sort of got used to seasons being in the wrong months, although Christmas in the heat of summer is till a complete no no for me. However, NZ has wild and dodgy weather just like the UK, so it could be cold, hot, wet, dry, windy, calm, who knows. But if I head north and then pedal south, I’ll have a better chance of getting better weather. I hope.

NZ is also quite hilly, ( mountainous actually) unlike Oz which apart from a bit of NSW, Vic and Tas, is flat. But that doesn’t matter, I wont be on a time limit and I’ll be quite flexible in terms of where I go, and I’ll quite happily get on a bus if I feel like it. The distances are also shorter than in Oz, so water and food won’t be such an issue as towns are closer together. 

I’ve found a couple of interesting looking routes to explore already, the Forgotten World highway and Gentle Annie, so they’re a must just because of their names. And while travelling around oz, I’ve met quite a few Kiwi’s who have told me to contact them once I’m  on Aeoteroan soil, and I will. That is one thing I  have really learnt since I’ve been travelling longterm, especially on my own; people mean it when they  say’ come and see us’. And if they don’t and I turn up, its down to them! The trick though is not to overstay of course.

Anyway, after NZ, my plan is to go to the Falkland Islands, via Chile. I’ll fly from NZ to Santiago, do a bit of Chile on the pushie if its still in one piece ( the bike that is), and then either get a boat from Punta Arenas down the bottom of SA to Stanley, or fly. Will have to wait and see how that pans out then with the Malvinas thing. I’d like to go by sea if possible, just because it would be cool, but a while ago, Chile was backing Argentina by blocking ships entering its ports if they had been to the Falklands. 

The Falkland Islands is one of those places I’ve always wanted to go, there and Zanzibar, but as Zanzibar is nowhere near the South Atlantic, then it will have to wait. I’ve got close-ish to it in the past but never landed on its soil. One for the future then.

But the best bit is that an RAF passenger plane goes between the Falklands and RAF Brize Norton, refuelling in the Azores. Civilians can use the service too, so if I can, I’ll head back to the UK on that as I have a few things to do and a few people to sort out back in Blighty. I'm not sure how the pushie will have held up by then or if I'll take her back to the UK with me. Might donate her to an unsuspecting local.  

Then I’ll either head back to the Falklands and NZ and onto OZ, or go to Canada, ride across it into the States and to San Fran, and then fly back to Oz from there. Or I might  carry on down the western coast of the Americas and back to Santiago, and then to NZ and OZ that way. All depends I guess on how things work out, how I feel, and other things that I need or want to do. That’s why being flexible with plans is so important; if they’re too rigid, you miss out on opportunities, but if they’re too fluffy, you end up not doing stuff either. I might even do a bit of walking and catching public transport. Not sure yet.

And I’ve decided to call the pushie Verity because its sounds like ‘veritas', which is what an old Italian bloke in Townsville exclaimed when he asked where I was heading on her and I said ‘ London. And Veritas was the mother of Virtue in Roman mythology, so why not.

 

 

Gear review

What worked, what didn’t, what was needed, what I would leave out next time. Just my opinion and just for this ride, but somebody might find it useful. 

Bike

Honda CT110 Postie Bike. Brilliant, didn’t put a tyre wrong. I like little bikes and have ridden across Africa, across Europe, across Asia, all on small hondas, and up and over the Alps on dirt and boulder roads on a small Suzuki pizza delivery bike. They are an excellent way to travel; light, easy to fix, nobody minds if you park on the pavement, ride down alleys, park between cars, and they always attract attention and prompt conversation. 

Riding around Australia on a postie bike is not a new - it's been done many times before, solo, in groups, in stages, in costumes, and as everybody will tell you, there is the annual postie bike challenge, a charity fundraiser which covers a new route every year in Oz. 

But these bikes are proven little workhorses and just keep going. Parts are plentiful, everybody has had one, knows how to fix one, has a bit of one, or knows a good bodge if you need it. People also reckon they are indestructible; well they're not quite, but providing you show them a bit of respect, change the oil and top it up, lube the chain and keep an eye on it and sprockets, it will get you where you want to go. Eventually.

Fast they are not, which is fine if your trip ( like mine) is to travel slowly and see as much as you can see. But there is no kilometre crunching to make up time or squeeze in an extra place a way off your intended route and still keep to your timetable ( if you have one) Top speed loaded is about 85 kph on sealed road, and you won’t get much more out of the little gem, even falling off a cliff with the wind behind you. But would I ride a CT110 again? Yes, most definitely, on a similar trip, and I will be keeping Gerty and travelling longterm on her again. South America is the next big project. And who knows, one day I may even introduce her to the CT110 I still have in Mongolia.

Tyres.

Vee Rubber jobs made in Thailand. Good, hardwearing and cheap ( about $60 AUS each) easy to fit or remove when fixing flats. I've used this brand on all of my little bikes for years. Gerty has a 17 x 3.00 road tyre on the front and a same size dual purpose on the back. I like this set up - good traction, smooth ride, does the job.

Tools

22, 19,17, 14, 12, 10, 8 metric spanners

three thin blade levers, patch kit and rubber glue

1 x Philips, 2 x flatblade screw drivers, long stemmed

Wrapped in an old tea towels ( hand wiping rag) and secured with a velcro strap.

Plug puller ( screwdrivers slip snugly into this too)

It's all I ever needed. But for some reason the front wheel and rear wheel nuts are different sizes; other bikes have the same size nut. But one extra spanner was OK. 

I did separate the tools into essentials ( e.g. flat fixing) and general maintenance though. And I stashed well out of sight because without it, you’re stuffed.

Cable ties, reel of gaffer tape

hand pump for tyres

spare plug, fuses, short length of electrical wire.

Panniers

Australia Post castoffs with rack. Good, waterproof and durable, did the job but ( to me) are unnecessarily heavy even when empty. They keep their structure well, and are great for carrying letters but I wouldn’t use these again because of their weight and size. 

But I would keep the rack and use more compact throw overs such as webbing army packs or giant loop type things. But that’s just my preference; I like to travel as light as possible and with as little clutter as I can.

Satnav.

Wouldn’t bother. I prefer maps anyway and it is pretty hard to get lost in Australia as there is generally only one way in and one way out of the smaller places.

Extra fuel tank

Mounted on step through bar and connected to carb via a Y split pipe. Very useful. A must for long distance travel. The original under seat tank will get you about 125 kms                 (depending on load, terrain, wind etc) but the extra 10L tank gives and extra 250 or so. But I still carried an additional 5L can for those places where there is only likely to be diesel, or out bush, or places with long rides between fuel stops. I kept the 5L can empty unless I really needed it as fluid swishing about and up higher ( the underseat tank and extra tank are still relatively low) affects the ride.

Crate

Part of postie bike lore and useful round town but became a clutter hole long distance. Probably wouldn't bother again.

Clothing

Matador jacket. Very good, and I liked it a lot. Three layers     (all removable) and the outer skin has mesh lined panels ( as opposed to just zips) which open right up and tuck away on the forearms, chest and back, thus allowing plenty of airflow. Integral armour stays in place too. Really good in the outback in the heat of summer, and the flaps close to keep the jacket waterproof and windproof. I did consider swapping it for motocross body armour and a shirt in the summer, but this was far more versatile, did a great job, and is only now showing signs of wear. Not bad after about 45000kms of extreme all weather  ( I also wore it around Europe in the winter before Australia)

Rev’It riding pants.

Lightweight, durable, mesh vents, hip padding, full knee armour, full length inner leg zips.  I really liked these -  except for the colour. The sales pitch reckons they are silver but they're not; they’re white. White FFS! For motorcycle riding? No. Just no, and the ‘ but they’re light coloured for visibility and reflection’ excuse is feeble. But they only do women’s riding pants in black or white ( silver) and I wanted a lighter colour for hot weather riding.

They can be used as over trousers ( hence the long zips so they’re easy to get on/ off over jeans etc) but that was never going to happen in the heat of the Australian summer. But they are perfectly adequate on their own as riding pants, although the mesh can rub a bit and make your thighs sore. That’s easily fixed by wearing lycra cycle shorts underneath. And no, its not because my legs arse are fat; they are not. It's just the mesh rubbing!

Helmet

White, dirt bike style, peak, extra vent at front, integral visor. I usually wear a flip front for road riding and wasn’t sure about a fixed full face job but this lid has been great. A light colour is a must too for anywhere hot. I’d never given it much thought until I saw the effects of heat exhaustion on somebody else, caused partly by a dark helmet and dark jacket when riding across the Sahara desert.

And a built in visor with a peak. The visor makes such a difference in the dust - goggles still leave your nose and mouth exposed and its just too hot to wear a mask. The peak also gives that extra bit of shade in very strong sunlight.

Boots

Please don’t be tempted by joggers; wear something that protects your ankles, especially if you’re likely to ride on dirt, which in Australia is an almost certainty as even major roads are frequently unsealed. Rocks will flick up and they will hit your feet and legs. It hurts, and if your legs or feet get damaged, that's the end of your ride.

You are also likely to encounter spinifex grass ( sharp) as well as other tough and spikey plants and thorns that will cut or scratch you, plus bitey things - snakes, lizards, spiders and stuff. So protect your lower legs and feet people! 

I like Meindel army boots ( desert version). Tough, protect your ankles but are still light enough ( both weight and colour) to be comfortable in hot conditions. They also dry quickly when soaked ( like on river crossings) and are water resistant rather than proof.  Sealsinkz socks ( or plastic bags if you must) are a good way to keep your feet dry and out of the wind. Mine are still going strong and are hardly showing any wear despite having been worn constantly through Russia, Mongolia, Kazakhstan, and now Australia. They’re easy to walk in too, just like regular shoes.

Ortlieb water bladder

I still can’t work out whether its an 8 or 10L job but it works very well, and because its pliable, it fits wherever you put it, making it easy to carry. It hangs up too and stashes away flat for when not in use. I used this plus several 2L plastic bottles to carry water when on long stretches or in the outback. Don’t under estimate the importance of water.

Cooking

I had a gas burner until I found a metho stove for about $20 AUS. Best bit of kit ever. Very compact, buy metho at the supermarket ( usually in the household cleaning aisle). Works very well and lasts much longer than gas. In an ideal world, my Coleman petrol stove would be my first choice,but its miles away, so it was a non starter. 

One pan ( op shop , cost $3AUS) cup, spork

Sleeping

Nanuk sleeping bag and a silk liner. Both scrunch down very small. Silk liner provides and extra layer when cold or a cool cover to sleep in when too hot for the bag. I used the bag as a doona when it got too warm to sleep in.

Swag mattress to sleep on in the tent.Even better folded in half.

Tent

Started off with a dome tent which broke. Good while it lasted though, and because it was a dome, free standing and no need to peg down. Then I bought a biker swag. Bloody brilliant, especially for stealth camping, but then the dark hours brought condensation and there wasn’t room to stash much and I had to get changed outside. Ok when its warm and dry but not so good when its colder and wetter. So I bought a very lightweight  OuterLimits tent, which turned out to be an excellent buy. Theoretically sufficient room for two people but in reality just one and a few bits of baggage, easy to put up, shaped like a wedge of cheese, low profile and green - all great for wild camping and staying hidden. And only $90.00 AUS too.

Foam earplugs

Once settled, they deaden the noise of animals, passing traffic, trains and the weather. No point being woken up or scared of noises once you've settled down for the night. I mean, are you really going to pack up and move in the dark? No, not unless you absolutely have to.

Knife

My Leatherman was stolen so I replaced it with a Smith and Wesson folding knife. Very sharp ( I slipped and cut my knuckle wide open with it ) and I kept this close at all times. By day it was round my neck on a lanyard, by night, next to me as I slept. Just in case....

Two tarps

One nylon green camo tarp, cost $20AUS, great for covering the bike and hiding shiny bits that might reflect light when wild camping.

One heavier but smaller nylon tarp for under the tent; the tent base is very thin ( weight compromise) so the tarp protected it a bit. $8.00AUS. Both rolled or folded up very small and took very little room.

Personal kit

A few clothes, a basic first aid kit ( bandaids, one triangular bandage - can be used as a pad to stem bleeding, a tourniquet, sling or regular bandage) antiseptic, Meopore dressing, eye wash, itch/sting cream.

EPIRB
Personal distress beacon. Not cheap but if you're riding alone or in inhospitable places, worth it. I didn't use mine but should have when my husband crashed and was knocked out. It just never occurred to me to push the button. But I now know ( having been told by the RFDS and the SES) that such an incident is exactly what it is meant for.

But if you have one, please test the battery just before you go somewhere alone or remote. It can't help you - or somebody you might come across who needs help - if its not working.

And that's about it. This set up suited me and it worked. The sleeping kit is the most important thing for me; if I'm cold or uncomfortable, I can't sleep, and that makes the next day so unpleasant......

Grounded

Voluntarily. Three weeks in Townsville. Almost as long as Broome and Perth, and I’ve been busy. Really busy.

The first week was a bit of down time which I needed, although I didn’t realise that until I was mid way through it. I have been on the road for quite a while now, living  with just basic essentials, finding stuff out on a daily basis and as I get to places, and making friends along the way. Every conversation I have is with a stranger, and whilst I like that, it is also nice to recognise people and have people recognise me, albeit only on a ‘ I’ve seen you riding around town', or       ‘ you were in here yesterday’ type thing. So to stop in one place for any length of time is very welcome but also a bit of a shock to the system, requiring a bit of adjustment. 

It is weird to wake up (in a bed) and not have to get moving instantly or pack stuff up. It’s odd not going to sleep looking up at the nightly display of fabulous stars, or being woken by the birds and bush creatures as they go about their day. And TV; I’ve never been much of a TV watcher, but I had forgotten just how it is part of everyday life, and on  few occasions, realised I was watching it without really being conscious of doing so. I suppose that’s how habits form in the first place; repetitive subconscious behaviour that becomes a ritual.

I caught up with Nadine too, and it was great to see her. She’s now working in Townsville, and we arrived on the east coast at the same time, which was uncanny but useful as I was able to help her find a place to live, as well as provide an additional pair of hands in the moving process. We even managed a few days exploring the area together which was nice - Magnetic Island, the Reef Centre, Charters Towers - formerly known as 'The World' because it was such a lively and thriving place with anything anybody could apparently want, the Italian Australian festival at Ingham, the Wallaman falls and its surrounding tropical rainforest. 

View over low bit of UNESCO World Heritage Park

The Wallaman Falls - 268m and the highest single drop waterfall in Australia

Rain brewing over the rainforest

Jetty on Maggie (Magnetic Island)

Stingers ( brand of jellyfish) live here - but thankfully not this time of year

Allied Rock wallabies thrive on Maggie

Since then, I’ve been getting on with stuff that I really needed to do but was unable to do for various reasons. I had the final scan that I was needed ( check up on the abdo problems I had in Perth) and that seems to be OK, and which I am very glad about. Then I got my haircut - long overdue and much needed. I had to get it chopped shorter than I wanted because my helmet had worn a bit of a hole in it at the back, a combination of wearing a helmet 12 hours a day, the constant dust and grit getting into it, and the heat. My hair is very fine but there is a lot of it, so right at the back on that lump bit at the back of the skull is where my helmet rubbed. Its a bit like that bald spot that babies get when they sleep and before they can really lift their heads on their own. Only I wasn’t bald, just slightly thread bear. 

The lantern Festival was on Saturday. It precedes the annual Cultural Festival which starts later this week.

And the 100 year commemoration of the start of WW1.

Had a chat with the mayor too who has a friend living in Roehampton, London (near my old stomping ground). She really laughed when she discovered I had ridden the whole way round Australia and up through the centre on dirt on a postie bike, living in the bush on my own. A very cool lady.

I’ve also given Gerty a bit of an overhaul, and she is looking trim and rested. I haven’t touched her engine as yet though as she’s running really well so there is little point in fiddling with something that isn’t broken. For now at least.  But I have ‘rearranged’ her and got rid of a few bits. 

Things like the Australia Post panniers. Whilst they were good and did their job OK, they are heavy even when empty and so add unnecessary weight. And whilst the little postie bike is designed for a bit of lugging and is regularly overloaded in places like Asia, what with a pig, a three piece suite and the whole family of seventeen on it at any one time, I prefer to run as light as possible and have as few possessions to worry about or unload, particularly when it comes to crossing rivers, negotiating very rough ground or off loading to fix flats. 

The max weight ( including the rider) is 109kgs, so with me (65kgs, plus riding gear - jacket, boots, riding pants, helmet, back plate - probably nearer 70kgs) an extra 10L of fuel, plus the gear I need to live (as opposed to gear that ‘might be useful’ ), then weight soon ads up. I said many months ago that when I resume travelling longterm on Gerty, which I will after PNG and NZ, I will replace the panniers with smaller, lighter bags without a built in fame.  It is very easy to fill any space that you have, and you always collect stuff as you go, so it makes sense to limit initial space and weight, with that in mind. Nadine and I both used Army webbing bags with liners on our trips across Europe, Africa and Asia, and they were great, but I’m currently investigating a giant loop system. We shall see. Actually, I might do a complete gear review when I get time, assess what was really useful and what could have been left out.

What else. Oh yes; I also removed the bits of pipe that had been bolted to Gerty. A good enough idea but overkill and not really needed. My bike had four bolted on the back and two on the front, far in excess of anything really necessary, and they were never full. I binned three from the back at Christmas and the two at the front have also now gone; good as extra water carrier or tool roll location, but superfluous. 

They attracted too much attention too - people always wanted to know what was in them, and if interested passers by wanted to know, then it was probable  that passing tealeaves might also wonder, so not a good place to leave vital items such as tools. I did contemplate locking them with drilled bolts but shelved that idea too as a lock indicates something worth nicking. And having had all our tools stolen in Mongolia, I found a better, less obvious place to stash them instead.

The satnav cradle is not wired to the battery and I only used the satnav once, along the Oodndatta when the track split. It was useless, but the cradle makes a useful phone holder for riding around town and using Google maps. But I will take that off when I get round to it. 

I’ve moved the crate forward too. It had been suspended off the backrack on a steel brace which flexed and lasted surprisingly better than expected. But I have moved it forward and got rid of the brace, halving the backrack capacity, but leaving enough room for my tent and sleeping mat. The bike rides so much better too with weight further forward over the back wheel, and that makes it better too riding off road and through the bush, which I do a lot of.

So all of that took a few days, doing a bit here and there. Then I bought a bike. Yes, a leg powered velocipede, which I have been riding around Townsville and exploring on. I love it and it is a great way to get out and about in a place which is essentially flat, although it does get very windy here in the afternoon, which makes the going a bit hard if you don’t plan your direction of travel ( it usually blows in from the ocean so I try and use it to propel me home). I bought it as my main means of transport around New Zealand. I will leave Gerty here because the faff and expense of getting her across the Tasman for a few months outweighs the benefits, and also restricts where I go next. If it is PNG, then sorting passage for her to there and then out again is likely to be even more of a fag. But a pushie is far more simple. I hope.