about 190 kms away, and on very rough road. My fear was I'd have a tumble, lose some fuel and then run out short. So I decided to ride up it a but and then backtrack down to Fitzroy Crossing, check out the Gorge and Tunnel Creek on way, and then replan.
The first bit wasn't too bad. Windjana Gorge was only about another 40 kms but very corrugated and sandy.
So the walk around the gorge was very welcome as it have me a good opportunity to stretch my legs after the tough ride.
Windjana Gorge is an old river gorge cut through Devonian limestone. The water carved massive vertical cliffs which rise right up from the old rivebed, orange, black and pink pigmentation glowing in the sunlight, and dotted with fossils indicating it's marine past.
It is also home to freshwater crocs. They're not as aggressive as the much larger salties, but they will still attack and bite if they are scared or annoyed. So it's a question of walk and watch where you're going if you go down onto the river bed because that is where they spend their days.
And sure enough, there they were this morning, a few floating in the warm water, others basking in the sun, motionless on a bed of nice cooling mud.
They don't look real though. I sat for a while just looking at them; we readily take photos but don't often just look, but here was something spectacularly interesting and unusual, to me at least. Grey, green, brown mottled skin, the colour of plasticine when all the colours have been mixed together. And magnificent tails frilled with big scales, arranged lengthways down either side. They almost look like designer monsters, the product of a wild imagination, except these creatures are for real.
The road onwards to Tunnel Creek was equally rough and I found it quite trying as well as very tiring, so once again, the opportunity to get off and walk around was welcome.
It is an interesting place. The river has cut a series of caves under the hills which take the form of a long tunnel, hence the name. A bit of scrambling over rocks, some wading through subterranean water and stumbling across sand in total darkness, to eventually pop out the other end, having passed massive undercuts of rock, rock floes, stalactites and giant tree roots hanging down from the roof.
I met Thierry in the tunnel, a Swiss rider who has been on the road for six years. When he mentioned how hard he was finding the road,I didn't feel quite so bad !
But he also said that the next bit towards Fitzroy was supposedly worse, and was considering turning back towards Derby and taking the bitumen round to Kununara. That wasn't an option for me as I have neither the speed or fuel range, so I pressed on, through more sand and deep corrugations, every kilometre feeling like ten. Then I came to a river crossing and had to stop.
It was hardly flowing at all but it covered the whole road and was muddy so I couldn't see the bottom. But I could see tracks emerging from the otherside. I was a bit wary of crocs, given what I'd seen earlier, but it was either cross or turn back and there was now no way I could do the latter. So I waded into the middle to check the depth; knee height. And flattish rocks underfoot, not too slippery. What to do? Walk alongside Gerty and risk dropping her if she stalled, or sit on her and steady her with my feet? I went for the latter and almost made it but the wet got the better of her spark and she stopped.
I pushed her almost to the edge but couldn't get over the last bit so I had to take her panniers off.
That did the trick, and of course, just as I got her out, a vehicle turned up and offered help; typical!
Trent and Cynthia from Adelaide had driven this way yesterday, and had been a bit further up the Gibb River road. Their presence was very welcome because I couldn't kick Gerty over so Trent pushed me and we bump started her, which was great. But then we saw he had a flat tyre, which I did offer to help with, but he was ok. So on I rode once again.
I was very tired by now and the sun was getting low. There was no way I would make Fitzroy tonight so I found a suitable spot to hide in the bush, set up the tent - and fell asleep for an hour an a half.
I had a feed when I woke up and felt a bit better but I'm hoping that there isn't much further to go to the bitumen tomorrow.
But you have to give these roads a go. I have everything I need to ride it and can walk out if necessary, but I have pottered along steadily and have stayed upright so far. But I will be glad to reach the tar.
No comments:
Post a Comment