The first bit was OK, and I managed to paddle out to the wave, laying flat on the board. But it went rapidly downhill from thereon, and I was shipwrecked many times in the next 90 minutes. It didn't help that the water is very salty and the sun very bright, blinding me. and meaning that I was unable to see waves sneaking up on me with the sole purpose of sending me sprawling. But on the plus side, I was exfoliated in places that I had never imagined exfoliation could occur, my sinuses are now completely clear, and I had the work out of workouts. But I did get a bit seasick bobbing over the waves, which wasn't nice. So tomorrow the plan is to stay on the board more than off it and to kneel, nay stand up on it at least once. And I don't mean when its on the sand.
I was very tired after the surfing ordeal and really just wanted to sleep. However, we ended up going for a walk along the seafront instead. It was probably the best thing to do but I would have still voted for 40 well earned winks, given the choice.
We got caught in the daily deluge while walking but as it only lasts about 20 minutes, its not a problem.
However, the seafront has a few cafes, one of which we ducked into, whilst watching how others keep dry.
(This is proper rain, not the usual drizzle stuff, which soaks you in about 2 seconds).
And there is a trail along the seafront with various points of interest that we followed, more for something to do than historical duty.
Hawaii claims to be the home of surfing, and to have introduced it to Australia. It also very nearly died out in Hawaii though when missionaries got a grip because they persuaded people that they should be spending time in church rather than riding the waves.
There are also various huge Banyan trees along the route. They are astonishing plants, with roots dripping down to the ground. Banyans are actually two trees in one, each living off the other - epiphytes I think they're called - and they really are the strangest things.
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