Saturday 9 November 2013

Grampians National Park

Left Stawell for Halls Gap. It's only about 25 kms but we decided that in order to see as much as possible in the Grampians National Park, we'd find a place to stay, dump the gear then go off riding. So that's what we did.


However, I'd forgotten that my hand hurt so rough off road riding was perhaps not the best thing to do but we did it anyway along a 40 kms corrugated dirt road up to an Aboriginal Shelter to see the hand paintings.


Holding the bars was difficult except with the tip of one finger and one thumb so I rode mostly one handed until the unsealed gravel road deteriorated into bull dust. Then I had to hang on, regardless

The shelter was worth seeing. A place where the Jardwadjali and Djab Wurrung people  
held meetings and traditional rituals and stuff. A bit of a town hall in the clouds and a very impressive view;  it looked right out over the plains which stretched well off into the distance and dropped out of site over the horizon.


And the surrounding rock formations were interesting; I think it was probably down to wind erosion.


There were hand prints in ochre on the walls and roof, supposedly of children aged between about 8 and 12. Nobody really knows what its all about or who the kids were though. I sometimes wonder whether these things actually mean anything at all or whether some enterprising sort just made it all up and the hand prints are there because somebody had nicked the tea towel and it was the only place to wipe their hands. It's the sort of thing Ernie Dingo from Crocodile Dundee might do.


On the way backdown the track to the bikes, we came across some Shingleback lizards basking in the sun. They were about 30 cms long, one being very dark the other quite light and mottled and both were covered with hard scales. They've got stumpy tails which apparently are there to confuse predators as it's difficult to tell which is the head end from above. They're part of the skink family and unlike many other reptiles, this lot don't lay eggs but have live babies. And they live for about 20 years.


There were also a few ant nests along the same track, and the path was swarming with big bitey ants, probably green ants. I got a bit too close with a stick and they charged me, managing to cover a few metres and crawl up my leg and have a good old chew, all within about 5 seconds. Note to self; don't poke ant nests.


We had been told there was a cafe nearby but the track was very sandy by this stage do we sort of doubted it. However, there was one, so we persevered with the bull dust and managed to get there without anybody falling off.  It was in an old olive grove that had been allowed to go wild, although it's still farmed but using old methods, and working with  the Barenhi Gadjin Land Council - the traditional land owners, albeit that they didn't farm olives.

What a nice place but somehow out of place, having an air of the Mediterranean about it, mixed in with rural  Australian dustiness, and surrounded by gum trees.

Being and olive farm, it was compulsory to try on of their olive taster lunches, so that's what we did.


Great stuff. After that we headed off along more tracks to Mackenzie Falls, a series of waterfall cascades in the park.




There are various lookout oats dotted through the area too, mostly fire posts. But they afford really good spots for just looking out over wide open spaces with little or no signs of human intervention other than the odd gravel track or mast dotted here or there. But they're also cold places, thanks to being exposed on high ground.



Looking over towards Mt Difficult.


On the way 'home' we found a place which overlooked Halls Gap. From up high, its obvious why the town was so named; a small village literally sitting in the gaps between two sides of high ground.


But the sun was already on its way out by then, and the temperature which hadn't been great all day, started to dip further, so we made for lower ground and food. Passed a few wandering wallabies on the way but they behaved and just hopped around on the track verges instead of out in front of us. Very thoughtful of them too as more than one tumble per week is not to be encouraged. Ever.


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