South into Victoria - pics to follow

We gave the bikes a good farkle  today. Now that we've been going for a few hundred kms, the individual quirks and foibles of each are starting to become obvious, giving us a clue as to what might need to be watched on each one. Nothing major, but little things like which uses most oil, which tyre valves loose a bit of air, which chains loosen most quickly, as well as any electrical issues. That's separate from the daily ride checks of course. 

We also rung the spokes, padded the electrics to reduce bulbs blowing, and fitted 12 v chargers to enable us to charge things as we ride. The brakes seem ok too but the state of the brake shoes can't be determined without removing the wheels as they are drums. So while they're working ok, we'll hold off inspecting those until we have to remove wheels to repair punctures or until an issue becomes evident. 

Same thing with rim taping, which we will do as prep for going off road. It's not really a necessary mod for tarmac riding but it gives that extra bit of protection from broken spokes where the terrain is rough.

So, without wishing to tempt fate, the bikes are riding well. Slow and stately maybe, but light and well balanced now that we are only carrying multi use essential kit. All of us have lived off bikes often enough to know that keeping weight and clutter down makes things more manageable, something which gets even easier as a trip progresses and you settle into the groove of things.

Even though they're riding well and are similarly matched for fuel consumption and what speed they do have, they don't have much in the way of acceleration. That can cause confusion for other vehicles even though they're a common site here. 

The key is to keep the variables constant so that others drivers can predict likely actions, and ride staggered, in closer formation than we would on more powerful bikes.  

That makes our total road footprint roughly van size, so provided normal distances are maintained - the distance that another vehicle would be expected to keep behind us and us behind them - it's much easier for everybody as it reduces the hazards for drivers from three to one cohesive unit. 

Whilst riding separately, strung out or close in to the left is tempting, it encourages vehicles to squeeze by and nip in as oncoming vehicles approach at a speed that they can't judge.  And that's not good.  

This is something that we all got to grips with when riding through Africa, Asia and Eastern Europe where road conditions and driving habits are not the best, and it's the how police advanced riders ride when moving as one, albeit on more powerful bikes. It takes a while to build up the confidence to do it, especially for new or lone riders but it definitely works. 

It was Melbourne cup day today and we kept seeing people in Vic wandering along in their glad rags and hats like they were off to a wedding. But most were off to the pub for the race - or in some towns, to the town races.

We all had a bet but none of us came even close, so it will be beans on toast for a while longer. Or at least until we run out of beans. 

The sun was hot again today but the wind was still biting. We rode along the Murray Valley again, through pastureland and ate lunch by the side of Lake Mulwala, watching the jet skiers dodge the trees in the lake. One woman nearly copped it but she nipped to one side in the nick of time.

It was an easy day,with a stop in the fabulously named town of Howlong. This is where we placed the doomed Melbourne Cup bets, before stopping at Katamatite to learn that nag fancying was not our forte. But no matter; the Tin Shed pub made up for it all; a giant tin shed with a bar, a one armed bar man and a gang of old ladies dressed for the racing but now a bit dishevelled after a few too many pints of sherry. Fantastic.

We wild camped next to the Murray not far from Echuca village.

 We had a good campfire and attracted interest from locals and visitors as we rolled in; what we were doing, where we were going, why we were riding posties etc. I love it when people come up and chat, give us tips about the local area, and pass the time of day. 

As we sat around the fire, I felt something ticking my leg. It was a fair size Huntsman spider creeping up towards my knee. Although they look scary, they're ok and not dangerous so I just brushed it off. He came back for more though, jumping back onto my foot before being sent packing into a pile of dried leaves. 

There was a huge fight in the trees on the opposite riverbank too; cockatoos versus galahs. What a shocking din they make. Two medium sized birds with a terrific squwark factor and the vocal chords of fog horns.

Next morning. 

The light was all pink this morning. Looked beautiful as it lit up the trees tops then slide down the trunks as it rose higher in the sky. Fish were jumping out of the water too, catching flies for breakfast. I can think think of more appetising starts to a new day but then I'm not a fish. Fairly big fish jumping too but I gave no idea what they were.  

Euchuca was just down the road from where we camped last night. It used to be a sizable port, Australia's largest inland port in the 1870, trading in wheat, wool and timber and using paddle boats. The place was founded by an ex con - Henry Hopwood from Bolton, UK, a fence who got 14 years transportation. He was pardoned after 12 years though.  Echuca is the confluence of the Murray and Campaspe rivers and Echuka means river meeting place in one of the Aborigine languages. 

We stopped there once we got going from our campsite. I found a replacement camera and a cheap phone, much to the delight of the young bloke who served us; it was his first day in the job and this was a good sale, impressing his new boss.

It was hot again today - 30 in the shade and with a dry breeze. We sat on the riverbank at Echuca and ate lunch, accompanied by a rather audacious family of ducks who took several pecks at my legs. One even tried to nick my banana. Rude.

After lunch we ride onto Heathhcote,  a country town about 120 kms north of Melbourne. 

We were all a bit dopey  so stopped at a pub for a schooner of lemon and lime bitters. While we were hiding in the shade, an old lady came in carrying the biggest glass of white wine they sold. She sat down, lit a smoke, and in the time it took her to frazzle her lungs with that, she also drained her bucket of wine before getting up and tottering out, nodding us a cheery ' how're ya going' as she did. 

I was dead impressed. She was very small and seemingly unaffected by her drink and the only person who has ever impressed me as much was years ago when I was in the police and I dealt with a similarly aged old lady who had been nicked for drink drive. She was completely in control of herself but blew 135 on the evidential breath machine; the legal limit was 35 and we charged at 40. Stonkingly pissed but totally in charge of her actions and speech. Impressive. 

The drink and the cool room did us in though, so we decided to stop in Heathcote for the night. Gordon had seen a motel so we went back to it. The owner was just fixing it up and gave us a great deal. Turns out he was Greg Flynn the owner of Flynn's vineyard which we'd passed on the way. We got chatting to him ( really nice bloke) and he gave us a bottle of his red wine; it was lovely and we downed or with the meal that Nadine cooked. 

It was an excellent find. Large spacious room recently fitted out and modernised. A great place to stay and we'll definitely come back when in the area. Heathcote Retreat Motel.

We have decided to explore this area for a while before we go to Tassie.  We'll probably head for Grampian National Park tomorrow and wing it from there. This is one of the  best bits about travelling as we do; do what you like, when you like and how you like. No pre-plannring, no pressure, no obligation to be anywhere.